Why Using Algae Eaters to Fix an Algae Problem Should Be a Last Resort

Posted on September 12, 2010 by Chris C

Algae eaters have their role in aquariums but more often than not, people only want them in order to quickly address an existing algae problem that has gotten out of control .  One of the issues I have with this is that many hobbyists don’t think about the compatibility between a new algae eater, the existing tank inhabitants, and the tank size.  As an example, someone keeping an african cichlid tank full of algae might go to the pet store and buy an otocinclus in the hopes of clearing up the algae problems, only to find out a few days later that the poor otocinclus had no chance at surviving in a tank full of aggressive and intelligent african cichlids.  A far more common example I see is that people will buy a pleco for their algae-infested 10 gallon tank without considering the fact that plecos can grow to be 2 feet in length!

Another issue I have with algae eaters being used as an algae solution is that suppose you put an algae eater in your fish tank solely to get rid of your current algae problem, and it works.  What next?  Will you buy algae flakes or blanch vegetables just to feed this algae eater that no longer has anything in the tank to eat?  Will you sell it back to the local fish store?

The point I’m trying to make here is that algae eaters aren’t the best way to tackle algae problems in an aquarium.  Algae problems exist for a reason, and the reason is never because there are no algae eaters. Excess algae growth in your tank occurs because your tank is ecologically unbalanced; algae in aquariums need nutrients and light to grow.  Like so many other aquarium hobbyists, you could be overfeeding your fish, leaving uneaten excess nutrients in the water column for algae to thrive on.  Or it could simply be that your tank’s photoperiod (the length of time your aquarium light is on) is too long.

Why spend the money on an algae eater when your algae problems could be addressed permanently by doing something as simple as feeding your fish less?  If you’re struggling with algae control, I urge you make an attempt at addressing the root of the problem before you add an algae eater to your tank.

Posted in Algae Prevention | Tagged , , | 2 Comments

Red Algae in the Saltwater Aquarium

Posted on September 8, 2010 by Chris C

Red Algae, or red slime algae, is one of the most frequently found forms of algae found in saltwater tanks. The title “algae” is actually a misnomer, simply because red algae is really a type of cyanobacteria.

The reason why this algae is such a common problem is due to the fact that they are well-suited to aquarium conditions. What I mean by that is that most hobbyists (in both the freshwater and saltwater scene) don’t keep proper tabs on the nutrient levels in their tanks. It’s not an easy task, that’s for sure!

The two nutrients that red algae love are nitrates and phosphates. Fish excrement, fish food, and gradually rotting detritus lead to excess nitrates and phosphates, so both of these are always found in aquariums with these characteristics.

With regards to fish excrement, obviously the more you feed, the more waste matter is produced by fish and invertebrates in your tank. By feeding reduced portions at fewer intervals, the tank inhabitants produce less waste and uneaten food left to rot becomes less of an issue as well.

Nitrate is significantly reduced via water changes so if you’re dealing with a red algae bloom, do a water change or two per week. You want to aim for a reading of zero. Though phosphates will be also reduced during water changes, they usually tend to rebound in a day or two.

Employing phosphate removal media is also a great method of nutrient control. I highly recommend placing it in an area of high water flow. Follow the included instructions and set the correct amount depending on your tank size. Your phosphate levels should read zero within 48 hours.

Another thing to note about red slime algae is that it doesn’t fare well in high flow areas. If you notice where almost all of your red algae growth is taking place, it is most likely in an area of lower water flow. Increase flow to that area as soon as possible.

These methods of controlling red algae are both proactive and reactive. But if you already have an algae problem, one of the most significant things you can do is begin by physically removing as much of the red algae from the tank as possible. With red slime algae, it shouldn’t be too hard because they tend to form carpets that can be removed with little difficulty. Just scrape it off of your live rock, glass, pumps and any other areas. Make certain to remove any suspended bits of red algae as well, along with any detritus and uneaten fish food.

Lighting is also a consideration when it comes to algae, and red algae is no different. If your lights are older than 6 months, then you should change them. Bulbs age, and the light they emit is going to gradually change in spectrum over time. In the case of reef lighting, bulbs eventually begin giving off more of a reddish color. Unfortunately, the red spectrum allows many forms of algae to really thrive. Other than changing out your bulbs, decreasing your photoperiod to 4-5 hours a day will help to control algae.

There are many ways to control red algae but as with all algae control methods, results take time. Getting rid of cyanobacteria normally takes weeks of thorough care. Follow these steps for at least a month and you should be well on your way to getting rid of red slime algae.

Posted in Saltwater algae | Tagged , | 5 Comments

Planktonic Algae in Ponds

Posted on September 5, 2010 by Chris C

Planktonic pond algae, commonly referred to as “pea soup” algae, is free-floating microscopic algae that gets its nickname because its color and opacity resembles pea soup. This kind of algae is common in new ponds for many of the same reasons why brown algae is common in new aquariums – an abundance of available nutrients from initial setup. In particular, planktonic pond algae feeds on phosphates, which is fairly common in tapwater. This explains pea soup algae’s presence in new ponds.

This pond algae can also appear annually during the spring and summer months, depending on nutrient levels.  When ponds first start warming up after winter, algae reproduction begins to hasten before many of the organisms that feed on them gain in population.  As a result, spring algae blooms are very common.

As rotifers and daphnia gradually repopulate a pond during spring, they feed on algae and bring the algae population back under control.  Later on in the summer months after birth however, fish fry feed on the rotifers and daphnia, leaving an opportunity for a summer algae bloom.

So is there anything that can be done to prevent or get rid of this algae?  Like any algae problem, I always recommend addressing the root of the problem first, which is an excess of nutrients.  An investigation into the pondwater content and source is a good starting point along that path.  If you already have an algae bloom and are interested in removal however, pea soup pond algae is unfortunately too small to be removed using a net or skimmer.  So with that in mind, the easiest way to tackle the problem is to get a UV light or pile on the biological filters.  Good luck! :)

Posted in Controlling Algae, Pond Algae | Tagged , | 1 Comment